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La Closerie des Lilas

La Closerie des Lilas, located in Montparnasse, is named for its beautiful enclosed lilac garden. In fact, the café (which opened in 1847) claims to have established the reputation of Montparnasse because of its proximity to one of the most famous balls of its time, the Bullier Ball. In the early 20th century, literary giants such as Hemingway, Miller and Apollinaire and artists including Cézanne and Picasso mingled with the bourgeoisie. Over the years Tuesdays became known as the day when poets, artists and great thinkers of all nationalities would gather for readings and discussions of some of the most exciting theories of their time. Those looking to follow in the footsteps of Hemingway, who lived in a nearby flat, can grab a stool at the polished mahogany bar, where a brass plaque engraved with his name marks his favorite spot. In the nicer weather, pull up a chair on the secluded terrace, where Hem himself wrote undisturbed for hours. There are two distinct sides to La Closerie. The less expensive brasserie, with its dark, smokey atmosphere, dim lighting and leather banquettes, gives off an understated vibe of luxury, enlivened by the chatty crowd, clinking glasses and the piano bar, where you can hear jazz nightly after 7 p.m. Classics like steak tartare, eggs with mayonnaise and terrines grace the menu. The more upscale restaurant consists of bright crimson seating, crisp white linens and formal waitstaff. Here you'll find lobster, Filet de Boeuf Hemingway (made with bourbon!) and classic desserts like crêpes suzette and baba au rhum.

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