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Corton

At Corton Paul Liebrandt finds the sweet spot between disciplined cooking and intricate, imaginative leaps. Intricacy and imagination are still there: in a simultaneously ethereal and earthy 'risotto' that floats a white cloud of salt cod foam over a dark terrain of black trumpet mushrooms and riso pasta; in an 'olive sponge' canapé both lighter in weight and more intense in olive flavor than the laws of physics and gastronomy would seem to permit; in a seaweed butter, served with the bread, that called to mind caviar in a whole new guise. But these exertions aren't obvious or showy. They're a generous attempt to orchestrate a varied medley of tastes both more and less familiar. — Frank Bruni

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